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This marks squash season and my favourite time of the year, especially for all the spiced dishes and other comfort food of fall. This Rajasthani sautéed dish is one I cook often, and the combination of ginger, chili and palm sugar lends it a lovely flavor harmony. The biryani, on the other hand, is loaded with whole spices, basmati and ghee, which provide enhanced flavour to the layers of grains and produce.

Mushroom and Squash Biryani

A celebration of curry dishes starts on early October, so what better way to mark the occasion than with a flavorful, comforting, single-pot biryani? If you like, prepare the vegetable curry element ahead of time and assemble all components on the day you plan to eat.

Prep 20 min
Cook 2 hr
Yields 4

For the squash and mushroom gravy
4 tbsp ghee, or butter
1 tsp cumin seeds
2 dried bay leaves
4 cloves
450g white onions, peeled and thinly sliced
3 green bird's eye chillies, slit open lengthways
5cm piece fresh ginger, julienned
2 tbsp tomato puree
¼ tsp mild chilli powder, or kashmiri chilli powder
1 tsp ground turmeric
2 tsp coriander powder
1 heaped tbsp greek yoghurt
300g butternut squash flesh, cut into bite-sized pieces
300g button mushrooms, trimmed and sliced
400ml vegetable stock, or water
Salt, to taste
2 tbsp chopped coriander, for serving

For the rice
200g basmati rice
2 bay leaves
4 green cardamom pods
A pinch of salt

For the biryani
2 tbsp melted ghee
1 pinch saffron threads, soaked in 3 tbsp warm water
1¼cm piece fresh ginger, julienned
3 tbsp finely chopped fresh mint leaves
1 tsp ground cardamom powder
1 tsp garam masala
Raita and salad, to serve

Begin by preparing the gravy. Heat the clarified butter in a sizable, heavy-based saucepan on a moderate flame, incorporate the cumin, bay leaves and cloves, and sauté for a brief moment. Stir in the sliced onion and cook, stirring often, for about half an hour, until softened. When the onions start to brown, remove half to a separate dish and set aside (you'll use them later during the assembly).

Add the green chillies and ginger strips to the remaining onions, fry for a minute, then mix in the tomato paste, chilli powder, turmeric powder and coriander powder, and fry for a short while. Turn down to a low heat, blend in the yoghurt and cook for two minutes.

Add the squash and mushroom halves, toss to cover in the spice mixture, then cook for three minutes. Pour in the liquid, and season to taste. Heat until boiling, then lower the temperature, place lid and cook gently for about twenty minutes, stirring once halfway to ensure no sticking to the bottom of the pot. Garnish with fresh cilantro, then take off the heat.

Preheat the oven to moderately hot temperature. Rinse the basmati, then put it in a saucepan with a litre of water and the bay, cardamom pods and salt. Bring to a boil, simmer for around ten minutes, until three-quarters cooked, then drain.

To build the layered dish, put a tablespoon of warmed ghee in a casserole pot for which you have a secure cover. Ladle in one portion the vegetable curry, then layer with half the rice. Add half the saffron water, ginger strips, mint, cardamom powder and garam masala, then top with the caramelized onions. Top with the remaining vegetable curry, then arrange the remaining grains. Top with the remaining ghee, saffron water, ginger, mint, ground cardamom and spice mix.

Seal with parchment, cover with the lid, then cook on the center rack of the oven for 15-17 minutes, so all the flavours soak into the grains. Remove of the heat, leave to rest, still covered, for several minutes, then remove the lid and serve with yogurt sauce and fresh salad.

Traditional Indian Achari Kaddu (Pumpkin with Spice Blend Stir-Fry)

The Indian word "achari" refers to flavouring a preparation using preserving spices, and the mix includes mustard seeds, fennel, fenugreek, cumin seeds, hing and nigella, but they're not used only in pickles. This mixture also features in various types of curries and sautéed preparations, like this recipe.

Preparation 10 min
Cooking 30 min
Serves 4

1 tsp black mustard seeds
½ tsp fenugreek seeds
1 tsp fennel seeds
4 tbsp vegetable oil
1 pinch asafoetida
5cm piece fresh ginger, minced
750g squash flesh, or use pumpkin, cubed
1 tsp mild chilli powder
½ tsp ground turmeric
Salt, as needed
1 tbsp jaggery, or dark brown sugar
2 tsp dried mango powder

Place the mustard seeds, fenugreek and fennel in a spice grinder, roughly grind, then set aside. Heat the oil in a spacious skillet or Indian wok on a medium heat. Add the crushed spices and the asafoetida, and sauté, stirring, for a brief moment. Add the chopped ginger, fry for a short while, then add the squash, chili powder and turmeric, and fry, tossing, for several additional minutes.

Add a small amount water to the pot, season with seasoning to taste and heat until bubbling. Place lid, reduce the heat, and leave to cook for 20 minutes, stirring once halfway. Add the jaggery, breaking up chunks a bit, then incorporate the mango powder, stir well and present hot with flatbreads or naan.