Visiting the Fairytale Realm of H.C. Andersen's Homeland in Denmark

Reflected back at me, I can see myself in oversized shimmering pantaloons, seen just for my eyes. Youngsters relax in a rock pool pretending to be ocean creatures, and adjacent resides a talking pea in a showcase, alongside a towering stack of bedding. It represents the universe of Hans Christian Andersen (1805-1875), a leading nineteenth-century's widely adored storytellers. I'm visiting the city of Odense, located on the island of Fyn in the southern region of this Nordic country, to discover Andersen’s lasting influence in his native city a century and a half after his demise, and to experience a few enchanted tales of my own.

The Museum: HC Andersens Hus

The H.C. Andersen Museum is the city’s museum honoring the writer, featuring his childhood house. A museum representative notes that in earlier iterations of the museum there was scant attention on the author's tales. Andersen's biography was examined, but The Ugly Duckling were nowhere to be found. For guests who travel to this place looking for storytelling magic, it was not quite enough.

The redevelopment of Odense city centre, diverting a main thoroughfare, provided the opportunity to reimagine how the city’s most famous son could be honored. A major architecture competition gave the Japanese company the renowned designers the contract, with the curators’ new approach at the heart of the structure. The unique wood-paneled museum with connected curving spaces launched to significant attention in 2021. “We have attempted to build a place where we don’t talk about the writer, but we communicate similarly to Andersen: with comedy, irony and viewpoint,” says the expert. Even the gardens embrace this concept: “The outdoor area for strollers and for colossal creatures, it's planned to create a feeling of diminutiveness,” he notes, an objective realized by thoughtful gardening, manipulating elevation, proportion and numerous twisting trails in a unexpectedly limited space.

Andersen's Impact

The author penned several memoirs and frequently provided conflicting accounts. HC Andersens Hus adopts this philosophy to heart; frequently the opinions of his acquaintances or snippets of correspondence are shown to gently question the writer's personal account of incidents. “Andersen is the narrator, but his account isn't always accurate,” says the expert. The outcome is a compelling swift exploration of the author's biography and creations, thinking patterns and best-loved stories. It is stimulating and playful, for adults and children, with a bonus basement fantasy realm, Ville Vau, for the youngest visitors.

Discovering the City

Back in the physical town, the modest urban center of Odense is charming, with historic pathways and historic timber buildings painted in vibrant hues. The author's presence is everywhere: the traffic lights feature the author with his signature top hat, bronze footmarks offer a no-cost pedestrian route, and there’s a outdoor exhibition too. Annually in August this dedication peaks with the annual HC Andersen festival, which marks the writer's impact through art, dance, drama and music.

During my visit, the week-long festival had 500 shows, many were complimentary. As I explore the city, I come across painted stilt-walkers, fantastical beings and an writer impersonator sharing tales. I listen to contemporary performances and observe an amazing nocturnal display including acrobatic dancers coming down from the city building and dangling from a mechanical arm. Still to come during the season are lectures, family art workshops and, broadening the storytelling legacy past the author, the city’s regular wonder event.

Each wonderful enchanted locations need a castle, and this region features numerous historic homes and stately homes around the area

Cycling and Exploration

Like much of the country, bikes are the best way to get about in Odense and a “bike path” meanders through the downtown area. From my accommodation, I ride to the complimentary port-side aquatic facility, then out of town for a loop around the nearby islet, a tiny landmass linked by a road to the mainland. City residents have outdoor meals here after work, or appreciate a quiet hour fishing, paddleboarding or swimming.

Returning to Odense, I dine at Restaurant Under Lindetræet, where the menu is based on the writer's motifs and stories. The literary work Denmark, My Native Land is highlighted when I visit, and proprietor the host recites passages, presented in English, as he serves every dish. It’s an experience repeated often in my visit, the island inhabitants enjoy storytelling and it seems that narrating is continuously on the menu here.

Historic Estate Tours

Each wonderful fairytale destinations require a castle, and this region features numerous historic homes and stately homes across the island. Going on excursions from Odense, I explore the historic fortress, the continent's best-preserved Renaissance water castle. Despite parts are accessible to the public, Egeskov is also the family home of the noble family and his partner, the princess. I contemplate if she might sense a tiny vegetable through a stack of {mattresses

Elizabeth Jones
Elizabeth Jones

A seasoned digital nomad and travel writer, sharing insights from years of exploring the world while working remotely.